I was less than half way through Francis Sanzaro’s The Boulder-a philosophy for bouldering when it struck me. I just haven’t got a clue
what this guy is on about? It appeared that the author was attempting to define the physical act of bouldering within a socio-cultural and quasi spiritual framework but to be honest,
it was really passing over my head. Mind you, I’m no intellectual but I know a
man who is. Enter Harold Drasdo; someone for whom the mantle of climbing
intellectual fits perfectly. Here is someone whom could recite Homer’s The
Odyssey-backwards-in 14th century Icelandic. Furthermore, he co
edited The Mountain Spirit. An anthology of mountain related essays from
Steiner to Beckett. If anyone could decipher Sanzaro’s work he could. Sadly, after
receiving the book back from him the other day with a message that he didn’t
like it, understand it and furthermore, had no intention of writing anything so unworthy of a critique, I was back
to square one.
For the record, Francis Sanzaro is described as ‘a climber
and a philosopher who believes that a sustained engagement with the fundamental
concepts of bouldering is necessary for the sport and essential for the
boulderer to master the craft’... Ahh..right so! I can appreciate that the actual physical act of climbing is open to a variety of interpretations that include scientific, cultural and
spiritual elements. The thing is, I don’t accept that bouldering whatever the standard is
imbued with otherworldly elements. The British Victorian and Edwardian early
bouldering pioneers took on early problems in the same spirit as they engaged
in a variety of activities. Because it was fun and because it was good practice.
The lone hillwalker who strays from the path because he is attracted by an
interesting little wall or boulder,does so to spice up the day. He/She might
only be taking on a 20’ V Diff crack. It has no significance other than as an
interesting diversion.
At the opposite end of the scale, I actually don’t believe
someone like Dave Macleod tackles a top end bouldering problem as anything more
than a sporting challenge. At a personal level, to succeed is to bring about a
sense of achievement and satisfaction. Perhaps underlying a successful
demolition of a long standing problem are more base motives; laying down the
gauntlet to perceived rivals; impressing commercial sponsors; receiving the
adulation of admiring fans etc. I don’t think Dave would see his activities
through Rose coloured, star shaped hippy dippy sunglasses somehow.
If I just randomly open the book and find a passage to give
you an idea of the the author’s style how about..’ Following Freuds' concept of
how we come to naturalise external authority into conscious morality, one could
take the naturalisation of a sequence a process of internalisation-though it
takes time, the sequence that at first feels awkward and alien is eventually
internalised etc’ Or how about.....’Opening a boulder problem is an intervention;
it is the anthropomorphism of textured surfaces; it is the personification of
pure space with the minimal amount of features’.
And so on and so on. My late Father had a saying..Bullshit
baffles brains’. If you haven’t seen Peter Sellers last film ‘Being There’ then
I can tell you that apart from it being a brilliant film it also is a perfect
example of the BBB theory. In the film Chance the Gardener becomes Chancy
Gardener, a simple soul whose everyday horticultural sayings are taken as
profound economic metaphors. I’m not accusing Francis Sanzaro of being a
climbing Chancy Gardener, rather the reverse. Someone who takes a simple
activity and wraps it in profound meaning, complex language and obtuse metaphor .
After saying that, perhaps my failing to understand this
book is down cultural factors or perhaps its academic tone suggests the author seeks to engage with a small but enlightened readership? After all,
Mr Sanzaro is a university lecturer teaching philosophy and religion in Maine which suggests the average UKC reader will be equally nonplussed! If it’s any consolation for the author and
publisher it is the fact that reviews are highly subjective so hopefully, there
will be reviewers out there who actually understand what the author is trying
to put across. Perhaps it may be praised as a classic of the genre? For myself,
well...it was like being on a mountain when the clouds come down. You
occasionally see something you recognize before it disappears into the murk.
The Boulder: A philosophy for bouldering is available from Stone Country Press
John Appleby: 2013
